When shopping for a suit, you have three main options: off-the-rack, made-to-measure (also called custom), and bespoke. Each has distinct characteristics advantages and drawbacks.

Off-the-rack suits are mass-produced by machines and available in standardized sizes at retail stores like Macy's, Suitsupply, or designer boutiques. While they offer immediate availability and varying price points, they are designed for the average body type and usually require alterations. The main drawback is limited customization - you can't modify details like lapel width, pocket style, or button placement. When buying off-the-rack, the most crucial factor is ensuring the shoulders fit properly, as shoulder alterations are expensive and difficult.

Designer mens suits offer a more tailored fit but are still ready-made, typically reflecting the signature style of high-end designers. While they may look stylish, they still lack the individualized fit and personalized options that custom suits can provide.

Made-to-measure suits offer a middle ground. They are cut from existing patterns that are modified to your measurements, typically still manufactured by machine but with some programs offering handmade elements. You can choose fabrics, style details (lapels, pockets, vents, buttons), and linings. While more expensive than off-the-rack and requiring 4-8 weeks for production plus potential alterations, made-to-measure provides better fit and quality. The custom suit jacket is an example of this, as it allows for specific adjustments to key elements like the fit and finish, making it a good option for those looking for a higher degree of personalization. The customization options vary by program, but the quality has improved significantly in recent years.

Bespoke suits represent the pinnacle of tailoring. The term originated from fabric being "spoken for" by clients. Unlike made-to-measure, bespoke suits use a pattern created specifically for you. They offer complete control over every detail and are generally handmade, though some processes might involve machines. Each tailor has a distinctive house style, which customers typically embrace. While providing superior fit, quality, and uniqueness, bespoke suits come with premium pricing and require multiple fittings over an extended period.

The recommendation for those serious about their wardrobe is to avoid off-the-rack suits if possible. While more expensive, a quality made-to-measure program provides better fit, higher quality, and more control over the final product. Bespoke suits, while excellent, are significantly more expensive and time-consuming to produce, making them a luxury option for those who can afford both the cost and time investment.